The English Garden Part One: Lawn Care

Have you ever seen pictures (or maybe you have in person) of the gorgeous lawns that seem to be one of the trademarks of an English garden? Well here are some tips on how to emulate this look in your own back garden that will get you one step closer to achieving the whole English garden look.

All the information below has been taken from http://www.theenglishgarden.co.uk/

For many gardeners the perfect lawn is the ultimate goal. While there's nothing like that immaculate green velvet carpet, a lawn can be whatever you want it to be. It could be highly formal, a flower filled meadow, dotted with daisies, or even a place to kick a ball. The beauty of a lawn is that it's soft and friendly, yet durable and hardwearing. It invites a mood of relaxation and acts as a constant foil for the more showy elements to star.

Lawns are made up of millions of tiny grass plants, like all plants they need light, air and moisture to live. We want our lawns not just to survive but thrive; find out all you need to know about keeping your lawn looking good all year.

Basics

From May onwards most plants including grass will begin to romp away. It is important to establish a mowing routine, at this time of year every five days is about right for most lawns.

• At the start and tail of the season however, (March/April - October/ November) the interval between cuts should be greater.
• Before the first cut, ensure that all debris is cleared from the lawn, a gentle rake is also a good idea to lift the grass blades.
• The first few cuts of the year should only remove the tips of the grass. As the season progresses you can gradually lower the cutting height.
• You are aiming to remove about a third of the growth. For formal lawns a height of 13-20mm should be maintained through the summer, at either end of the season set the mower on a slightly higher setting.
• Less formal lawns should be cut to a height of about 30mm.

Mowing techniques

Mowing is one of the most frequent tasks carried out on your lawn, and therefore it is vital to get it right. The quality of the cut will depend, not only on your turf type, but also your choice of mower.

• A cylinder mower is fitted with several blades arranged in a spiral located on a front cylinder. The cutting action is similar to that of a pair of scissors, and the more blades fitted, the finer the cut. These mowers are used where an immaculate sward is required.
• A rotary mower on the other hand is more suitable for general mowing of most turf areas. These are fitted with a horizontal blade that spins at high speed and cuts with a similar action to a scythe.
• Both cylinder and rotary mowers are available as either petrol driven or electric models. Your choice will come down to budget and suitability.
• A hover mower is a rotary mower that floats on a cushion of air and is useful for cutting slopes or even steep banks.

It is best to collect lawn clippings, either during cutting using a box fitted to the mower, or after, by raking the surface of the lawn. Over time, if these clippings were left on the lawn they would cause a build up of thatch leading to drainage problems.

If you only have a narrow width mower make two adjacent passes in the same direction so that the stripes are not too small in proportion to the area and other elements.

With electric mowers make sure a RCD (Residual Current Device) is fitted. If you should accidentally cut through the cable, then the RCD will turn off the power.

Don't add grass clippings all in one go to the compost heap; instead, mix them with coarse plant material and leaves.

Watering

• During dry weather you should raise the height of the cut, so that only the tips of the grass are clipped. Allow these clippings to remain on the lawn to help reduce evaporation.
• Most lawns will recover quite quickly from a period of drought, so only start watering the lawn when absolutely necessary, once you begin you will need to continue at weekly intervals until sufficient rain has fallen.
• Use a sprinkler and water in the evening to minimise evaporation.
• Be sure to apply the right amount of water: too much water is wasteful and too little will cause the roots to come to the surface. Aim to allow the water to soak into a depth of about 10cm.
• Following a dry spell you may need to make minor repairs to the lawn. A good way to fill small bare patches is to insert plugs or hair transplants grown in plastic propagation cells.

Making new lawns using seed or turf

When sowing a lawn from seed, the intended use and desired look of the lawn will determine the most appropriate seed mix to use. A lawn that needs to withstand heavy wear and some neglect should contain a high proportion of the tough broad bladed ryegrass. For a finer more refined lawn use a seed mix without ryegrass.

• The ideal time to sow seed is September when the soil is still warm, yet moist.
• Choose a calm day with light rain forecasted.
• When sowing, make sure the surface is weeded, raked and level, this is the only opportunity to get it right.
• The best time to lay turf is September/October. A dry spell followed by rain would be ideal.
• When laying a lawn using turves, make sure you get the soil preparation right. It should be cleared of weeds, then forked, raked, firmed and levelled.
• Buy the best quality turf. Reject dry edged, yellow or weedy turf.

Seed Mixes

For a formal lawn

80% Chewings fescue, 20% Browntop bent

For a utility lawn

40% Smooth stalked meadow grass, 30% Chewings fescue, 20% Creeping red fescue, 10% Browntop bent

For a tough, hardwearing lawn

35% Perennial ryegrass, 30% Chewings fescue, 25% Smooth stalked meadow grass, 10% Browntop bent

Weed and feed

The spring feed should be applied just as the grass is starting to grow in March. The fertilizer should contain nitrogen, which encourages strong healthy growth, as well as potassium, potash and trace elements.

Many brands are available, mostly as resin coated granules, which are easy to apply. The granule coat breaks down gradually, providing the lawn with a constant supply of nutrients without the risk of burning or scorching.

One application should be enough to see the lawn through to the autumn. If during the summer, however, your lawn shows signs of slight yellowing or a loss of vigour, then an application of an organic liquid fertilizer based on seaweed can be applied.

Along with grass, the weeds will also be growing quickly. Individual weeds can be dealt with easily by an application of a selective weed killer or alternatively removed using a narrow trowel.

If using liquid chemicals diluted with water be sure to apply at the recommended dose and always read the label.

In essence, apply early in the morning on a calm and moist day. After six weeks, a repeat application may be necessary, particularly for established weeds or those with a creeping habit such as clover.

Remember to wash the watering can thoroughly or better still have two cans and use one only for chemical application.

With the recent withdrawal of many garden chemicals, it can be worth checking with the Royal Horticultural Society for guidelines on chemical use. Log on to http://www.rhs.org.uk/

Autumn work

• It is important to remove the build up of dead grass or thatch using a metal tined rake. The removal of this thatch will reinvigorate the grass minimising the risk of fungal disease in warm, damp autumns.
• Aerating the lawn is equally important, use a border fork to push down into the lawn about 6cm and wiggle it about, repeat this action moving backwards at 15cm intervals over the entire lawn.
• Creating these slots will enable air to get in, relieving compaction and improving drainage
• Areas of bare lawn can be top dressed with old potting compost mixed with grass seed. Brush this in with a stiff birch besom or other broom so that some of the seed is worked into the soil surface.
• Unlike the spring feed, which was high in nitrogen, the autumn fertilizer should be high in potash
• Instead of raking up the fallen leaves on your lawn, raise the height on your rotary mower and use it to suck them up. The collected mixture of chopped leaves and grass clippings will be great for the compost heap.

Source: http://www.theenglishgarden.co.uk/advice-on/lawn-care